NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2002


Where Shepherds Still Watch Over Their Flock

Article by Raylene Nickel
Photos by Linda Dufurrena


A lone shepherd stands watch over a flock of 800 ewes in one of the most remote regions of the American West. Day and night, as guide and sentinel, he never leaves the sheep. The danger from coyotes and mountain lions is real in these dark wild mountains of northern Nevada.

Each day the shepherd leads his sheep to new grazing land. In summer he makes his home in a small tent with the flock. By winter, a tiny metal house on wheels offers the shepherd a bit more shelter and a little heat. Both must be moved often to stay with the flock.

Buster Dufurrena on herding duty.

The shepherding of sheep is among the most ancient of all farming practices. And certainly nothing in the modern world has yet been devised to take the place of the shepherd in those vast and rugged regions where fences could never be built and where only sheep can seek out forage on which to thrive.

Shepherding on the Nevada ranch owned by Buster and Linda Dufurrena, near Denio, is a tradition that has been part of their Basque culture for as long as anyone knows. Only the cell phones carried by the herders reveal their connection to a modern world.

The Basque people are long-time sheep herders from the Pyrenees Mountain region of Spain and France. Their origin remains unknown and their language bears no similarity to anything else spoken throughout Europe.

Nearly 100 years ago, Alex Dufurrena immigrated from his Basque homeland and found similar country in the rugged terrain of Nevada’s Black Rock Desert region, near the Quinn River Valley. He herded sheep for local ranchers on the shrub-lined mountain slopes.

By 1915 Alex had earned enough money to buy a small ranch of his own. He also purchased some land in partnership with his five brothers. He married, started a family, and bought out his share of the land from his brothers. But when poor health brought on hard times in 1944, the land had to be sold.

Though the family ranch was gone, Alex Dufurrena’s sons were determined to continue ranching. Like their father, they too worked for other ranchers until they could begin buying their own spreads. Today Alex Dufurrena’s love for sweeping mountain ranges and the animals that graze their rugged slopes lives on once again in a family ranching legacy built by his youngest son, Buster, now 71, and his wife, Linda.

The Dufurrenas’ Nevada ranch includes 1,600 ewes as well as 500 beef cows, right, being driven by Tim Dufurrena.

The Dufurrenas along with three sons and their wives--Tim and Carolyn, Dan and Maryjo, and Hank and Ginny--manage a modern ranching operation of 500 beef cows and 1,600 ewes. They run 18 brood mares and two stallions, sell a few colts, and add the others to their riding string.

Livestock is grazed on 4,000 deeded acres of rangeland and 70,000 acres of public land leased from the federal government. Alfalfa is grown on 1,000 acres.

“We have to use herders in order to graze the sheep on our mountain ranges,” says Buster. “It would be impossible to fence it for sheep. Each day the herders take the sheep to a new piece of country, so they get fresh grazing all summer long.”

In December each year, after lambs have been weaned and ewes rebred, sheep and herders begin an overland journey to winter grazing ground, a 600-square mile mountainous area 70 miles south of the home ranch. With one herder leading the flock, others follow with pack mules.

“Once the sheep leave for the winter country, they are gone. Each day the trail takes them further south, one, two, three long valleys away, down gravel, and then not even gravel roads. Someone drives down every few days to move the herder’s camp, in winter a little white metal house on wheels; take him a pair of boots, some oil, and more batteries. It is vast country, even by our standards....The band moves like a slow cloud across the desert landscape, southward before the winter wind....”

Those words are from a book produced by Linda Dufurrena and her daughter-in-law, Carolyn (Fifty Miles From Home, Riding the Long Circle on a Nevada Family Ranch, University of Nevada Press). An accomplished photographer, Linda provided photographs for the book (and this article). Carolyn wrote heart-felt descriptions of the family’s ranch life in this desolate and beautiful land.

The trail followed by the sheep crosses public land leased to other ranchers. Permission is needed to cross these lands, and the Dufurrenas secure a “trail permit” from the Bureau of Land Management. Originally issued to ranchers following the same trail in the late 1800s, the specific permit the Dufurrenas purchase is more than 100 years old.

“The permit requires us to move the sheep at least seven miles each day,” said Buster. “So we just keep moving, but every three or four days we stop and rest for a day. The sheep drive easily because they know the trail.”

Once on the winter range, herders set up camp. Every five to six days someone from the main ranch, most often Buster, makes the 70-mile trip to help the herders relocate their camp to fresh grazing grounds. It’s not uncommon for the wintertime temperature in the mountains to drop to 25 degrees below zero. But the normal light dusting of snow permits the sheep to graze brush and shrubs. When there’s a heavy snowfall, hay is delivered to the flock from the ranch.

By the end of March the now very pregnant ewes start the 70-mile trip back to the home ranch. They are sheared on arrival, and lambing begins in early April. The ewes lamb on the open range and are allowed to raise no more than two lambs. If a ewe has three or four lambs, the extras are raised by Linda at the ranch, where she bottle-feeds as many as 50 lambs each spring.

Rachel Mentaberry Ringheimer in traditional Basque clothing.

The first group of ewes to lamb are put into one band, numbering 800 to 1,000 head plus lambs. All others make up a second band. A herder takes charge of each flock, and both graze separately all summer. In mid-May the earliest-lambing flock of ewes is gathered for the marking of the lambs, the second flock a few weeks later. In the book, Carolyn describes how the ewes are “gathered” inside an old sagebrush corral:

“The ring of sagebrush where we will mark the lambs is perhaps four feet tall, its walls as thick as they are wide. Living sagebrush grows in the walls, the man-made fence and the living desert woven together almost seamlessly. It is an oval ring high on a sloping ridge, built tilted into the rising sun, sheltering the animals inside it from the wind, warming them with the dawn. No one knows who built it, or how long ago. We use it once or twice a year. The rest of the time it is an artifact, a structure so subtle you might not even notice it when you drive by, in a place you would never drive by. It is the last of its kind, although there were once many like it in this country.

Brood mares provide the next generation of horses on the Dufurrena ranch.

“We spread out silently around the little cup-shaped basin, tilted to accept the sun’s liquid warmth. The sagebrush oval is on the hill above us. We take positions in the tall, sharp-smelling brush, listening for the sheep. It is important to stay quiet, not to startle them as we turn them into the corral. We wait, and finally they come. The herder brings them slowly, just before the sun creeps down the red rock ridge. Dusky white shapes mutter to each other; brass bells sound in sagebrush. They move slowly, easing away from the human shapes standing silently, guiding them toward the corral. The sun pours light through the dust as they funnel through the gate, mill around softly, calling their lambs.”

Handling as many as 1,000 lambs in one day requires the help of the entire Dufurrena family including children, the herders, and two additional employees as well as friends and neighbors. Early in the morning the lambs are separated from the ewes. One by one, they are caught, the males castrated, and each lamb vaccinated and its tail docked. A brand of red liquid paint is placed on each lamb’s back. The first group of lambs to be marked might be branded with a circle brand; the second group an A. The brands help the herders keep lambs from getting mixed in with the wrong flock of ewes.

Ewes and lambs are counted at the time the lambs are worked. Because sheep commonly give birth to twins, the number of lambs averages 120 percent of the number of ewes in the flock.

The flock is then turned out to summer range near the home ranch. Lambs are separated from the ewes and turned into fields of alfalfa regrowth during the first week of September. The lambs average 100 pounds when they are sold in mid-November to a packing company.

To encourage the ewes to come into heat and rebreed easily in the fall, they are fed a higher-protein diet. They are brought off of summer range in mid-October and turned into fields of alfalfa regrowth. Breeding is completed by early December when ewes and herders retrace the 70-mile trail to winter range.

The Dufurrenas’ present herders are from Mexico. Juan Hernandez, 45, has worked for the family for 13 years. Bonifacio Bracamontez, 22, has been with them for seven years.

“The relationship with the land has less to do with ownership than with covenant, as does the relationship between the generations,” Caroline writes in the book. “For these Basque People, a Stone Age people transplanted from ancient roots, the covenant with the new landscape is, in a sense, a continuation of the covenant with the old. The tenacious love of life and land, work and family, that they bring with them has responded to this empty place. And so the land owns us, not the other way around. We are part and parcel of the ridges and the soggy meadows, the dusty alkali and the storms that cross the emptiness. The circle of family continues, part of the landscape. The landscape feeds our circle, permits it to remain.”


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