JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2003


Piedmontese
Love Me (Lean and) Tender

Article by Ivan Glick
Photos by Mike Boyatt


Heavily double-muscled Piedmontese cattle that originated in Italy may look tough, but their meat isn’t. These amazingly fast-growing cattle get to market weight in less than one year from birth, and their meat is tender and virtually without fat. The secret that controls this kind of growth has only recently been discovered in Piedmontese DNA.

At Georgetown Farm in Virginia, Tom Albert’s family has had generations of experience breeding and showing champion Polled Herefords. But the family was looking for a niche market where they would have some control of marketing and be better paid for special-quality beef.

They found their opportunity in the unique genetics of the Piedmontese cattle. Piedmontese DNA carries a gene that enhances both muscle development and meat tenderness. Uncastrated crossbred bulls that are at least 50 percent Piedmontese grow unbelievably fast, reaching a market weight of 1,100 pounds at around 11 months after birth. The young bulls have all the natural growth-boosting hormones they need up to age 14 months.

The Big Test

To prove this to himself, Albert artificially bred a Polled Hereford female to an ABS full-blooded Piedmontese bull. The resulting calf was the bull he’d hoped for. He fed the uncastrated bull a growing ration for 13 months to 1,200 pounds and had it slaughtered for evaluation.

Crossbred bulls within two weeks of slaughter.

The astonished processor reported that with the hide off, the carcass seemed to be all muscle without any fat. That didn’t surprise Albert. The USDA technician who evaluated the carcass observed he would not have believed the results if he hadn’t run those tests himself. The test bull produced extremely tender, low-fat beef.

That was the start of Georgetown Farm’s Silver brand beef. Today, the farm has its own abattoir to process the animals so it can maintain quality control. High-end restaurants and suburban supermarkets are the major outlets for the farm’s all-natural beef that is produced without antibiotics, growth-boosting hormones, steroids, or GMO feedstuffs.

Genetic Help

A muscle enhancing gene on the Piedmontese DNA chain is responsible for the cattle’s double muscling and exceptional tenderness. Researchers in Europe and at Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore made the myostatin genetic discovery about the same time just a few years ago. Scientists at Johns Hopkins worked with mice to study the gene’s influence on muscle development and in the process developed “super” mice. Their work has helped North American cattlemen to better understand their cattle.

Josh Albert manages the family’s hilly 980-acre home farm in Albemarle County, Virginia. His father, Tom Albert, oversees the operation and guides production on the additional five thousand acres of their Oklahoma ranch. Both places are expanding in Piedmontese, working up from their Polled Hereford base. The present-day Alberts are the fourth generation of Virginia cattlemen.

In Virginia, Josh Albert explained that state regulations limit an operation to 300 head on feed at one time. Both bulls and heifers are fed, but they prefer the young bulls. Until recently, the self-fed, no-corn ration has been mainly oats and dry ground alfalfa with minerals and vitamins as well as dry distillers grain for protein balance.

Feeding Time

They are now trying a finish ration of whole, dry, non-GMO shelled corn with a pelleted supplement to balance for protein. It’s getting the animals to slaughter weight in a third less time than did the previous ration. The reduced feeding time will enable them to market more animals each year even with the 300-head feedyard limit.

Demand is growing faster than Georgetown Farm can supply from their own herds, so the Alberts are buying Piedmontese wherever they can find them all over the U.S. They pay a premium over local sales barn prices and take any calves that are 50 percent Piedmontese or over because that’s the minimum Piedmontese genetics guaranteed in their brand specifications.

Purebred Piedmontese mama cows with calves on an Amish farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

 

Because they need a year-round supply of slaughter animals, the practice at Georgetown Farm is to calve cows in groups every other month. After weaning, the calves go to a 120–150-day feed. By then it’s time to process them for Silver brand beef.

Italian Mountain Cattle

Piedmontese originated in the north Italian alpine foothills. There they are multi-purpose cattle kept for meat, milk, and sometimes for work as draft oxen. They were brought to North America through Quebec in the 1970s, and have spread across Canada and the U.S. as market demand has grown for low-fat beef.

Vicki Johnson, spokesperson for the North American Piedmontese Association in Spokane, Washington, explained how the Italian cattle still are taken to the 8,000-foot high pastures on the south slope of the Alps for summer grazing. Cows are milked by hand and the milk is processed into cheese.

If North American Piedmontese are to grade Choice, they must be fed longer and by then will be excessively large for a good fit in the commodity beef market. The lean meat market seems to be their niche. Experienced cattlemen who grew up preferring their beef finished to the high-fat percentages of the old USDA Prime grades may find this meat too lean for their liking.

John Leunk and Wayne Schlabach of Wooster, Ohio, saw the potential and introduced Piedmontese cattle to the Amish community in Wayne and Holmes counties of Ohio more than a decade ago. Leunk says they were won over to the “Pieds” by the five to seven percent higher carcass yield and the discovery that this could be the tenderest beef of all breeds.

$30,000 Mother Cow

Josh Albert, left, who manages the family’s Georgetown Farm in Virginia, along with brother Matt.

Schlabach did his own extensive research of beef production before taking the plunge on Piedmontese he found in Texas. He actually started with just an embryo he had implanted into an Ohio cow. The resulting calf was the female that became Ohio’s most important Piedmontese foundation cow, mother of nearly 200 calves before being retired from ET donation. In the me antime she changed ownership at $30,000.

Leunk and Schlabach formed a beef marketing company in 1997 and joined forces with the Leachman Cattle Company of Billings, Montana, two years ago for nationwide marketing. Their brand of Piedmontese beef is called “Montana Range.” They expect the breed to gain popularity as more Pieds become available and the market for leaner beef develops.

Kevin and Joanne Brewer are ranchers in Forsyth, Montana. They run a herd of over 3,000 black Simmentals they are crossing with Piedmontese to produce black Pieds. Their March and April calves are weaned in October at 500 to 600 pounds. They finish the crosses for slaughter at 1,050 to 1,500 pounds. The heavier end will grade “Choice,” but by then carcass weight may easily top 1,000 pounds. Brewer said most grade “Select,” which seems to be today’s market preference.

“As all experienced cattlemen know,” he said, “the Simmental carry a pretty thick rind of fat just under the skin. With the Piedmontese cross we can remove two-thirds of that fat. And the market is headed in that direction.”

Late Maturing

The Piedmontese are classed as a late-maturing breed because they get very large before they are ready to put on fat. Brewer explained that producing fat the consumer doesn’t want anyway is only a waste. It takes more feed per pound than producing red meat muscle tissue. Holding Piedmontese cattle to heavy weights in the feedlot seems like a misuse of good genetics.

Jerry Hofer at the Lake View Hutterite Colony near Lake Andes, South Dakota, agrees. He is livestock manager for the colony and has been using Piedmontese bulls on Hereford/Angus cross cows for almost 12 years. Last year he calved out 220 head on their own farm and bought back enough additional calves from his Piedmontese bull customers to finish 400 head in the Colony feedyard.

Avoiding The Fat

“We don’t feed too hard. We don’t push the cattle,” Hofer said. April calves are weaned at about 600 pounds in October. In the feedyard, the Lake View cattle go on a ration of ground, mixed alfalfa and prairie hay, cracked corn, and a 40 percent urea-base liquid supplement. Cattle are topped off as they reach 1,200 pounds. Some of the Angus cows will already grade Choice at 1,100 pounds. “We try to avoid Choice grades because they’re too fat for our niche market,” Hofer said.

All the Lake View cattle are guaranteed drug-free. Bulls are castrated. Marketing is by contract with Ken Metcalf of Mechanicsburg, Illinois, for his Metcalf Farms Piedmontese All-Natural brand beef company. The cattle are contract processed in Wellington, Kansas.

Piedmontese-Hereford crossbred mama cows at Georgetown Farm.

Unlike some European breeds, Piedmontese cows usually calve easily. Josh Albert says over 90 percent calve without assistance, and it’s only in an occasional breech presentation that assistance is needed. When calves are breech, the practice at Georgetown Farm is to do a C-section.

Vicki Johnson at the Piedmontese Association said statistics show a 98.6 percent calf survival and a 95 for calving ease. While nobody is quite sure why, cows carrying transferred Piedmontese embryos seem to need calving assistance more frequently.


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